Polish
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Eric West
- Posts: 5747
- Joined: 25 Apr 2002 12:01 am
- Location: Portland, Oregon, USA, R.I.P.
- State/Province: -
- Country: United States
click here
or here
Personally, If I owned a polyacrylic surfaced guitar that needed "refurbishing", I'd try, since it is plastic coated, heating the surface carefully, just above the melting point, with either a propane or Oxy/Aetylene torch evenly over the whole surface, and let it cool.... But that's just me.
I think my Red Baron is about due for "treatment".
EJL<FONT SIZE=1 COLOR="#8e236b"><p align=CENTER>[This message was edited by Eric West on 20 April 2003 at 01:47 PM.]</p></FONT>
or here
Personally, If I owned a polyacrylic surfaced guitar that needed "refurbishing", I'd try, since it is plastic coated, heating the surface carefully, just above the melting point, with either a propane or Oxy/Aetylene torch evenly over the whole surface, and let it cool.... But that's just me.
I think my Red Baron is about due for "treatment".
EJL<FONT SIZE=1 COLOR="#8e236b"><p align=CENTER>[This message was edited by Eric West on 20 April 2003 at 01:47 PM.]</p></FONT>
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Donny Hinson
- Posts: 21823
- Joined: 16 Feb 1999 1:01 am
- Location: Glen Burnie, Md. U.S.A.
- State/Province: -
- Country: United States
Mica (Formica) is very durable, but the topcoat and color coats are very thin (on the order of a few thousandths of an inch). Once it's started to wear appreciably, there's not much you can do to "restore" the finish. If the color coat hasn't been harmed, the top coat can be successfully recoated with with lacquer or acrylic to restore the gloss. (Be advised that the new top coat won't be as durable as the original coating, and will scratch easier.) For that reason, most people just choose to resurface it with new mica, since this also gives you the option of changing the color or pattern, and thus giving the guitar a whole different look.
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David Cobb
- Posts: 1545
- Joined: 15 Oct 2002 12:01 am
- Location: Chanute, Kansas, USA
- State/Province: Kansas
- Country: United States