RV-3 repair!!

Hiro Keitora · Post by **Hiro Keitora** » 8 Oct 2004 5:32 pm

Can anyone out there repair my RV-3??? What's happening is that the "Direct" sound no longer comming out. Only Delay and reverb. When I step on it to turn it off, the straight sound comes out. So I think it's more of the "Op amp" kind of problem rather than "mechanical" problem.

I have X3 RV-3 and if this can't get fixed easily, I'm forced to use something new for reverb+delay. But before I jump on it, I'm wondering this can be fixed relatively easily. Anyone? Help! <H>

George McLellan · Post by **George McLellan** » 9 Oct 2004 3:17 am

I just had the same thing happen to my Boss DD-3. Are these repairable or like most electronic "toys" throw away and buy a new one.

Regards,

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SUAS U' PHIOB
Geo

Brad Sarno · Post by **Brad Sarno** » 9 Oct 2004 8:04 am

Sounds like the first pot, the dry/wet mix control has gone bad. Or perhaps the connections to it.

Brad Sarno

Bill Crook · Post by **Bill Crook** » 9 Oct 2004 11:51 am

Hey There Guys...............

Unless you're a topnotch electronics dude, I wouldn't suggest you go digging into a DD-3. That thing has more wires packed tighter than anything I've ever seen short of them old style laptop computers.

I had to replace the little red LED for a fellow. I found out that the houseing is part of the signal and power path. You cannot test it spread out on a work bench without useing at least 6 jumper wires. It need's to be completely re-assembled for any test. It took me 2 days to get that sucker back up running.

Be Ware !!!!! You have been warned.

ajm · Post by **ajm** » 9 Oct 2004 1:23 pm

I bought an RV3 at a guitar show used for $10. I knew it didn't work when I bought it. I took it home and opened it up, hoping it was something simple like a broken wire. I didn't see anything so I put it back together.

The bottom was missing one screw. I also removed an electrolytic cap that was free floating and attached to the circuit board with two wires. I don't know if that was stock or not, but if it was it was the hokiest job I'd ever seen and couldn't believe that they'd send them out that way.

I sent it off to Roland for repair and got it back about a month later. It was marked "Unit has been altered, unable to repair".

If you decide to open it up, consider yourself warned.

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Artie McEwan

Hiro Keitora · Post by **Hiro Keitora** » 9 Oct 2004 3:37 pm

Hummmmm... The first "pot" is soldered directly to the board, so unless there's a "cold solder joint" on the board, I can not even test it out.

I believe that, in the circuit design like this, even the "direct" signal passes through the circuit( Not the "true-By-pass"), so even if I get "straight through signal by stepping on the pedal, it's still going through the circuit to come out. I don't know if it's worth it to try fixing it, ala 90's cars

<H>

Bill Crook · Post by **Bill Crook** » 10 Oct 2004 4:38 am

Yes, The "pass-through" is a active circuit in those things. Thats why you can't dasiy-chain tuners and such in-line.

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http://home.comcast.net/~crookwf/

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Jerry Van Hoose · Post by **Jerry Van Hoose** » 10 Oct 2004 7:18 am

Check out AnalogMike@aol.com or http://www.analogman.com (Mike Piera) for repairs and "high cut modifications" on all Boss digital delay units. I had the "high cut mod" performed on my DD3 and the repeats are much smoother and warmer, not harsh. It only takes about a week. Please feel free to email me for further information if needed. Jerry

Hiro Keitora · Post by **Hiro Keitora** » 10 Oct 2004 8:48 am

Ah! Analog Mike in Connecticut! I bought his Tube Screamer Mod when he first starting out his service. Thanks, man, I'll give him a call.
Now, this is interesting if, we can do "High-Cut" on RV-3. Yes, I do LOVE and own a banch of Analog Delay box but I'm also very lazy

I just don't like to rig around anything extra. Perhaps, that's the main reason I now use Acoustic Image's Clarus rather than my Webb with an extention cabinet...Lazy, that is. But it can be a "good thing".