Help with Peterson V-SAM

Larry R · Post by **Larry R** » 10 Jun 2004 6:09 pm

I bought the V-SAM, my first strobe tuner. I guess I don't understand how to tune with a strobe. Strings 5 (B) thru 10 (B) don't seem to be steady on the strobe. Can somebody please tell me what the strobe is suppose to look like when I tune a string?
Which of the vertical strobe bars am I suppose to be referencing to? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Larry Reynolds

Patrick Ickes · Post by **Patrick Ickes** » 10 Jun 2004 8:52 pm

Hi Larry,
When you pick the string, a letter note will appear on the screen. Next to the note there is a small number. That number corresponds to the strobe octave bar that you use for that particular note. That is the one you focus your attention to. If the bars are traveling up, you're note is sharp. If the bars are traveling down, you are flat. Try to get it where the bars "freeze" as you first pick the note. The tuner is very responsive and sensitive, so as your note decays and lowers in pitch, the bars will start to drop. Once you get the hang of it, you'll wonder how you ever got in tune with anything else.
Have fun,
Pat

Larry R · Post by **Larry R** » 11 Jun 2004 5:28 am

Thanks for the input Pat. Does the octave bar count from left to right or right to left and would that be the larger bar or smaller bar?
I like to tune with the "cents" format showing. Will that inhibit my tuning process?
I've also determined that if I pluck the string gently without a pick , the strobe tends to be more stable and less erratic. A slight touch is all that is needed.

Joey Ace · Post by **Joey Ace** » 11 Jun 2004 7:27 am

I don't understand your term "octave bar".

If you mean the Strobe Bars, on the left, they all present the same info, but the farthest left one is the biggest range. The others show finer degrees of accuracy.

First get the far left one stable, then get the others as stable as possible. Slight movement is not unusual.

Think of the bars like a number, say 1,234.
That's approx a thousand, more accurately 1,200, etc.

You get a purer signal if you pick at the 12 fret. That minimizes overtones. New strings help too.

Larry R · Post by **Larry R** » 11 Jun 2004 8:15 am

Thanks for the input Joey. That makes sense to me now.
Is it possible that the smaller bars (to the right) will become stable before the larger ones (to the left) do? If so, what should I do then?
Also, if there is some degree of movement with all of the bars, then how can I be sure that this instrument is any more accurate than another commonly used tuning instrument?

Jerry Van Hoose · Post by **Jerry Van Hoose** » 11 Jun 2004 8:58 am

I've noticed that Peterson offers a vinyl cover for safe storage. Is this cover used in conjunction with the blue boot? Can the Peterson tuner be easily removed from the blue boot? I've never looked closely at one. Thanks.[This message was edited by Jerry Van Hoose on 11 June 2004 at 05:02 PM.]

Joey Ace · Post by **Joey Ace** » 11 Jun 2004 9:07 am

I've just learned that my above description, while it works for me, is not totally accurate.

The following quote is a message that Chris (from Peterson) posted in response to a similar question, at the Peterson Forum a few weeks ago.
<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:<HR>"The virtual strobe display will require a little time to get used to. Here are some general tips.

1.)As you may have figured out, the display scrolls up when the string is sharp, and down when it is flat.

2.)The individual vertical bands represent different octave ranges. There are 4, and ideally you will focus on making the left most band stand still, although you will notice the others slow to a stop as well.

3.) It is best to not use a pick. Use the fleshy side of your thumb and gently pluck the string....

4.)Unlike needle and LED tuners, you do not need to pluck the string repeatedly. I would say you can generally pull the string once every 5-7 seconds or until you can no longer hear the sustain of the note.

5.)Sometimes it helps to turn the guitar's volume pot down to about 1/4 to 1/2 of it's full potential. Not much signal is required to get a very accurate reading.

6.)Make very slight adjustments to your tuning pegs until the strobe display stops moving... There will be random shifts ever once in awhile, this is normal. The tuner is hearing everything that your pickups are giving it... noises and all. When you have the display standing still, or extremely close to standing still... you are within 1/10th of a cent."<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

Joey Ace · Post by **Joey Ace** » 11 Jun 2004 9:15 am

Jerry,
Yes, the tuner can be easily removed from the blue boot. Similar to my Fluke 77 multimeter.

Unlike the Fluke, you can't put the cover on backwards. Too bad because that protects the display in transit.

Larry R · Post by **Larry R** » 11 Jun 2004 10:25 am

Thanks Joey, that clears things up considerably.

Larry Robbins · Post by **Larry Robbins** » 11 Jun 2004 1:57 pm

Larry R,
Im sure once you get used to it,youll really like this tuner.
Im a Larry R 2 ha,ha

------------------
Sho-Bud ProII,Nash 400,
TC Electronics M300.
"Kindly keep it Country"

George Macdonald · Post by **George Macdonald** » 12 Jun 2004 6:45 am

Jerry, I bought a "camera" bag at Wal-Mart that my VS-ll fits perfectly in so it doesn't rattle around in my pac-a-seat. George