Ernie Ball volume pedals...?
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Scotty Wenzel
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Ernie Ball volume pedals...?
I am considering one of the Ernie Ball volume pedals. Are these clean enough for PSG? If not, what's a descent sounding, clean with no high freq rolloff, mid-priced option? TIA...
sw<FONT SIZE=1 COLOR="#8e236b"><p align=CENTER>[This message was edited by Scotty Wenzel on 23 May 2004 at 06:55 AM.]</p></FONT>
sw<FONT SIZE=1 COLOR="#8e236b"><p align=CENTER>[This message was edited by Scotty Wenzel on 23 May 2004 at 06:55 AM.]</p></FONT>
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CrowBear Schmitt
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Scott Appleton
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scratchy itch itch .. I remember my EB vol pedal
I had to warm it up for about a minut or two everytime i wanted to play a set. the throw is really designed for a standing person. Goodrich or any of the fine pedals made for steel is the way togo.
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Mullen S12
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71 Tele, Regal 45, Gretch
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I had to warm it up for about a minut or two everytime i wanted to play a set. the throw is really designed for a standing person. Goodrich or any of the fine pedals made for steel is the way togo.
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Mullen S12
Acoustic 165 100W tube
71 Tele, Regal 45, Gretch
Lap, Columbia Lap, Line 6
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Herb Steiner
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The EB pedal is designed for guitarists, not steel players, IMHO.
And replacing the pot in one of these puppies is among the more challenging tasks I've encountered in the world of steel guitar maintenance. An RPITA.
Go with the Goodrich, which is the standard of the industry in pot pedals, or the Emmons/Derby type, if you like the pedalrack mounting system. The Goodrich has a pedalrack mounting bracket as well, but it's a heavier and bulkier pedal than the Emmons/Derby type.
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And replacing the pot in one of these puppies is among the more challenging tasks I've encountered in the world of steel guitar maintenance. An RPITA.
Go with the Goodrich, which is the standard of the industry in pot pedals, or the Emmons/Derby type, if you like the pedalrack mounting system. The Goodrich has a pedalrack mounting bracket as well, but it's a heavier and bulkier pedal than the Emmons/Derby type.
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Scotty Wenzel
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Gary Jones
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Actually the EB volume pedals were designed for steel guitar. It's just that over the years the design has changed many times.
In 1978 and '79 I was manager of the volume pedal shop in San Luis Obispo. I did all of the machine work, wiring and final assembly of all volume pedals made during this period.
The pedals were designed by a fellow named Ron Saul, who has since retired from EB. He consulted with many southern California steel players during the initial design period. Keep in mind that Ernie was a steel player(Bobbe Seymour told me that he has sold Ernie's old Bigsby 3 times).
Originaly the pedal had input/output jacks on the side, and used an AB 500k ohm pot. It had a taper control (which some people mistakenly refer to as a tone control). This control was not in the active signal path, but provided a variable resistance to ground for the AB pot, thereby changing the volume taper.
I have 3 of these left over from my days working at EB, and they are the only volume pedal I use. Since I have short stumpy legs the height of the pedals is not an issue. The only reason I would buy another pedal is to get one with active electronics, such as a Hilton or Goodrich.
To my mind the EB volume pedals have one advantage over other brands (which I have spoken of in other forums). That is, because the foot-plate itself is so light, if you take your foot off the pedal, it stays where you put it. In my experience other pedals tend to creep one-way or the other.
I agree that the newer pedals, with the jacks on the front, and 250k ohm pots, seem to be better suited for guitar players. The jacks seem to be set up for pedal-board use, rather than steel guitar purposes. I also agree that other brands would be a better choice at this time.
edited for splelling<FONT SIZE=1 COLOR="#8e236b"><p align=CENTER>[This message was edited by Gary Jones on 24 May 2004 at 08:37 AM.]</p></FONT><FONT SIZE=1 COLOR="#8e236b"><p align=CENTER>[This message was edited by Gary Jones on 24 May 2004 at 11:08 AM.]</p></FONT>
In 1978 and '79 I was manager of the volume pedal shop in San Luis Obispo. I did all of the machine work, wiring and final assembly of all volume pedals made during this period.
The pedals were designed by a fellow named Ron Saul, who has since retired from EB. He consulted with many southern California steel players during the initial design period. Keep in mind that Ernie was a steel player(Bobbe Seymour told me that he has sold Ernie's old Bigsby 3 times).
Originaly the pedal had input/output jacks on the side, and used an AB 500k ohm pot. It had a taper control (which some people mistakenly refer to as a tone control). This control was not in the active signal path, but provided a variable resistance to ground for the AB pot, thereby changing the volume taper.
I have 3 of these left over from my days working at EB, and they are the only volume pedal I use. Since I have short stumpy legs the height of the pedals is not an issue. The only reason I would buy another pedal is to get one with active electronics, such as a Hilton or Goodrich.
To my mind the EB volume pedals have one advantage over other brands (which I have spoken of in other forums). That is, because the foot-plate itself is so light, if you take your foot off the pedal, it stays where you put it. In my experience other pedals tend to creep one-way or the other.
I agree that the newer pedals, with the jacks on the front, and 250k ohm pots, seem to be better suited for guitar players. The jacks seem to be set up for pedal-board use, rather than steel guitar purposes. I also agree that other brands would be a better choice at this time.
edited for splelling<FONT SIZE=1 COLOR="#8e236b"><p align=CENTER>[This message was edited by Gary Jones on 24 May 2004 at 08:37 AM.]</p></FONT><FONT SIZE=1 COLOR="#8e236b"><p align=CENTER>[This message was edited by Gary Jones on 24 May 2004 at 11:08 AM.]</p></FONT>
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I use an EB and love it.
It seems to have a larger angle of rotation, ie not so touchy or more foot movement for a given volume change.
Here's a trick to that may help changing the string. I take the screws out of the pot bracket, get the new string wound, and then get the bracket back in position, put the screws back in.
It seems to have a larger angle of rotation, ie not so touchy or more foot movement for a given volume change.
Here's a trick to that may help changing the string. I take the screws out of the pot bracket, get the new string wound, and then get the bracket back in position, put the screws back in.
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Bobby Lee
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I use mine when I stand up with my Fender Stringmaster. It stays put when I take my foot off it. My Goodrich pedal doesn't do that.
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Bob Hoffnar
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Ernie Ball pedals worked fine for me for years. I switched to Emmons style pedals so I don't use Goodrich or EB these days. As far as a comparison goes of Goodrich and EB:
They sound exactly the same ! Its just a freakin pot and a couple wires after all. If I remember right the EB might have a bit more throw which is a good thing. The new ones have the plugs in an awkward place though.
Bob
They sound exactly the same ! Its just a freakin pot and a couple wires after all. If I remember right the EB might have a bit more throw which is a good thing. The new ones have the plugs in an awkward place though.
Bob
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I too owned an Ernie Ball pedal and used it for years. (I now own a Hilton). For changing the strings, wrap the string around the pot as it should be. Here's the easy way to finish> borrow a Crochet hook from your wife, girl friend, now you can hook the string and place it over the pulley with no problem. (Hints from Heloise
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