An EQ ?
Moderator: Dave Mudgett
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Larry Bell
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A good rule of thumb with any EQ is to start out flat and work from there. Just because the sliders are all at 0db doesn't mean the SIGNAL is flat, only that the EQ is flat. Realize that the lowest C6 note is 55Hz and the lowest on E9 is 123Hz. The highest note on E9 is about 1760Hz. That can give you a frame of reference around where the FUNDAMENTAL frequencies are -- about 50 to 2K. You will have overtones that will increase the upper limit somewhat.
A good exercise would be to start out with all the sliders on 0db. Increase and decrease each individually to figure out which ones you want to boost and cut and approximately how much. All this stuff will vary from guitar to guitar, room to room, and amp to amp. If you want to use a multiband graphic you'll need to learn how to dial it in pretty quickly in a gig situation.
Like all devices, a graphic can make you sound better if you use it properly. It can also complicate things with very little improvement in sound. I have several and rarely use them except in my studio. Amp and fx processor EQ usually suffice for me when playing live.
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<small>Larry Bell - email: larry@larrybell.org - gigs - Home Page
2003 Fessenden S/D-12 8x8, 1969 Emmons S-12 6x6, 1971 Dobro, Standel and Peavey Amps
A good exercise would be to start out with all the sliders on 0db. Increase and decrease each individually to figure out which ones you want to boost and cut and approximately how much. All this stuff will vary from guitar to guitar, room to room, and amp to amp. If you want to use a multiband graphic you'll need to learn how to dial it in pretty quickly in a gig situation.
Like all devices, a graphic can make you sound better if you use it properly. It can also complicate things with very little improvement in sound. I have several and rarely use them except in my studio. Amp and fx processor EQ usually suffice for me when playing live.
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<small>Larry Bell - email: larry@larrybell.org - gigs - Home Page
2003 Fessenden S/D-12 8x8, 1969 Emmons S-12 6x6, 1971 Dobro, Standel and Peavey Amps
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Lyle Bradford
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Donny Hinson
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Brad Sarno
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Well first of all start with the eq flat, right in the middle where the click is. Remember that the more you EQ a frequency, the more you add what's called phase distortion to the sound. That's not a big deal but it does mean that you should only EQ what you need but not too much.
I think you'll find that the range around 600 to 900 Hz may want to be cut just a few dB because steel pickups tend to be boxy or barky in that range. Then you'll also find that up around 2-3kHz the pickup is also kind of loud so you may want to reduce it there too. Then maybe down around 50 or 60 Hz you'll want to boost some lows to get the fatness.
It's a good idea also to "feather" the EQ. On a graphic EQ, feathering is when you use a few faders to cut. For example. If you want to cut around 800Hz but not just that narrow band, you can use the fader nearest that frequency and also the two faders either side of it but not as much. This puts a gentle curve to the graphic EQ and helps reduce distortion.
You may also find that the range around 6kHz is where your pick attack lies. You can reduce or enhance it in that band.
I like graphic EQ's for their quick and easy interface but for getting really in control, a parametric EQ is the way to go. That way you can dial in exactly where you want to be. On a graphic EQ, you may find that the frequency you're after lies somwhere between the available faders. But graphic EQ bands overlap so you can usually get what you want.
Good Luck,
Brad Sarno
Blue Jade Audio Mastering
I think you'll find that the range around 600 to 900 Hz may want to be cut just a few dB because steel pickups tend to be boxy or barky in that range. Then you'll also find that up around 2-3kHz the pickup is also kind of loud so you may want to reduce it there too. Then maybe down around 50 or 60 Hz you'll want to boost some lows to get the fatness.
It's a good idea also to "feather" the EQ. On a graphic EQ, feathering is when you use a few faders to cut. For example. If you want to cut around 800Hz but not just that narrow band, you can use the fader nearest that frequency and also the two faders either side of it but not as much. This puts a gentle curve to the graphic EQ and helps reduce distortion.
You may also find that the range around 6kHz is where your pick attack lies. You can reduce or enhance it in that band.
I like graphic EQ's for their quick and easy interface but for getting really in control, a parametric EQ is the way to go. That way you can dial in exactly where you want to be. On a graphic EQ, you may find that the frequency you're after lies somwhere between the available faders. But graphic EQ bands overlap so you can usually get what you want.
Good Luck,
Brad Sarno
Blue Jade Audio Mastering
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Lyle Bradford
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Donny Hinson
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I don't recall saying anything like that, Lyle. I have spoken many times about the graphic equalizer in the Fender Super-Twin Reverb. It's simply fantastic, and will deliver UNGODLY tones that <u>no</u> other combo amp in the world can match...at least none that I've ever come across.
A parametric equalizer is better than an ordinary "mid-range" control, but it just doesn't have the "full spectrum" capabilities that a 6-9 band graphic equalizer has.<FONT SIZE=1 COLOR="#8e236b"><p align=CENTER>[This message was edited by Donny Hinson on 23 May 2003 at 04:35 PM.]</p></FONT>
A parametric equalizer is better than an ordinary "mid-range" control, but it just doesn't have the "full spectrum" capabilities that a 6-9 band graphic equalizer has.<FONT SIZE=1 COLOR="#8e236b"><p align=CENTER>[This message was edited by Donny Hinson on 23 May 2003 at 04:35 PM.]</p></FONT>
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Larry Bell
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The Boss EQ-20 is pretty cool too. 10 band, programmable (saves preset eq settings), well constructed stomp box.
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<small>Larry Bell - email: larry@larrybell.org - gigs - Home Page
2003 Fessenden S/D-12 8x8, 1969 Emmons S-12 6x6, 1971 Dobro, Standel and Peavey Amps
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<small>Larry Bell - email: larry@larrybell.org - gigs - Home Page
2003 Fessenden S/D-12 8x8, 1969 Emmons S-12 6x6, 1971 Dobro, Standel and Peavey Amps