Help with Tubes

Stephen Winters · Post by **Stephen Winters** » 11 Dec 2002 8:34 am

I am new to tube amps, so here is a novice question.

I need to replace my tubes. My amp uses 6L6GC tubes. While researching tubes to buy, I have seen 6L6B, 6L6WGC, GT6L6, GT6L6C, etc.

Can I use any of these as long as it is a 6L6? Or does the GC matter? Thanks for the help.

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Stephen Winters
Carter Starter
Peavey Deuce

Bob Lawrence · Post by **Bob Lawrence** » 11 Dec 2002 11:13 am

Stephen,

Most of the tubes you listed can be or were produced by different manufactures. Having tubes produced by different manufactures can affect the tone even if the tube has the same number/letter combination. The letters can represent different: plate voltage/power ratings, metal or glass case, location the plate connection etc. They are not all compatible nor are they all designed for a rugged musical instrument amp. Below is a URL that may help.
http://www.vacuumtubes.com/6l6.html

Bob

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Donny Hinson · Post by **Donny Hinson** » 11 Dec 2002 3:29 pm

The plain ol' 6L6 was a metal tube...and is not suitable for high power use. The 6L6GB and 6L6GC were glass tubes...with the later "GC" outline (suffix) being the preferred tube. The prefix "GT" on the "GT6L6" is probably a tradename ("Groove-Tube"?). The same for the "6L6WGC"...it's probably just a special tradename designation for the 6L6GC. As long as it says "6L6" and "GC", you're on the right track.

Joey Ace · Post by **Joey Ace** » 12 Dec 2002 5:04 am

I always believed "GC" means "Glass Case".
Still do.

Bill Crook · Post by **Bill Crook** » 12 Dec 2002 7:30 am

You are correct !!!!

GC means Glass Type.

Now as to the different current and voltage rateings, I would suggest that you refer to the tube manuals for these type tubes.

Personally, I have found that any tube with a "GC"(aka "Glass Type")will work O.K.

This is subjective, My opnion only.
Some folks may not agree with me.....

<FONT SIZE=1 COLOR="#8e236b"><p align=CENTER>[This message was edited by Bill Crook on 12 December 2002 at 07:31 AM.]</p></FONT>

Bob Metzger · Post by **Bob Metzger** » 20 Dec 2002 3:03 am

Try 7581A's in a 6L6 amp.

J Fletcher · Post by **J Fletcher** » 20 Dec 2002 9:50 am

As far as I know, the first 6L6's were metal, and simply called 6L6's. The first glass 6L6's were 6L6G's. The next improved version were the 6L6B's, and the next version was the 6L6GC. The "C" version has a greater plate dissipation rating, and can withstand higher plate and screen voltages. "GC" doesn't stand for glass case,but the "G" does mean glass.
The "W" stands for a ruggedized version, as in 6L6WGB.....Jerry

Dan Tyack · Post by **Dan Tyack** » 20 Dec 2002 10:39 am

The 5881 is a military spec version of the 6L6 which is compatible. My absolute favorite 6L6 type is the old Tung Sol 5881, but you would be hard pressed to find two matched pairs. The last one I saw listed for sale was over $100 for a single.

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www.tyack.com

Tim Rowley · Post by **Tim Rowley** » 22 Dec 2002 11:20 pm

5881's and 6l6WGB's are both heavy-duty tubes and are very similar-sounding. In my past experience (100 years ago) both can be mildly overdriven more readily than the average 6l6GC.

It's weird now that I think about it: back in the all-tube days we wanted to play relatively clean but most of the the tube amps tended to clip if driven very hard. Now everybody wants that "crunch" sound of the tube amps that really can't be duplicated with solid-state. Back in the all-tube days we complained about paying $10.00 a pair for 6L6's overy year or two, now guys will pay $2000 for a tube amp and $40 a pair for tubes. Times have definitely changed.

Tim R.

Chris DeBarge · Post by **Chris DeBarge** » 23 Dec 2002 8:24 am

People will pay a LOT more than $40 for a pair of 6L6's. Crazy, I think, but whatever floats your boat!

http://users.erols.com/bluestat/6l6page.html

No affiliation, etc. The JAN 6L6WGC's I think are a great tube at a reasonable price.