NV-400 repair

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Jack Francis
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NV-400 repair

Post by Jack Francis »

Some time back I took my NV-400 to an authorized Peavey repair shop because it was barely audible after I turned it on.
The gentleman told me that it needed some re-soldering and cleaning.
I was at the jam session today here in Arizona and it started doing the same thing it did before.
A player (also playing a Rus-ler) came over and told me to shut it off and smack it on the top then turn it back on.
I did and it worked great the rest of the day.
Moral of the story,,,try this attitude adjustment first, before shelling out $80
for repairs that were not done!!
Jack
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Tony Prior
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Post by Tony Prior »

Jack, the repairs probably were done, just not enough of them. Eventually you will smack the top and it will stop functioning all together. The amp needs to be fully disassembled, all input/outut connectors cleaned , not just sprayed, but cleaned, the reverb input and output connectors must be cleaned, not just sprayed, the rear panel
1/4 jacks must be cleaned,,not just sprayed..you get the point. You can probably do all this yourself and save the $80 and it will take you a couple of hours.

Don't forget to clean any and all plug in connectors that are on the PC board as well.

I took my Chevy to a Chevy dealer once for repairs and when I got it back after I payed the bill of course, the problem was still there. Evidently they know how to sell 'm but not fix 'em. Same with your Peavey Dealer.

There has probably been 2 dozen posts here on the forum about the Nashville 400 issues from members with the same exact problems and the fixes as well.

The 400 is a great amp and yours just needs a tune up, like the rest of them.

tp<FONT SIZE=1 COLOR="#8e236b"><p align=CENTER>[This message was edited by Tony Prior on 30 September 2002 at 02:55 AM.]</p></FONT>
Steve Hinson
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Post by Steve Hinson »

Jack-there is a Molex connector plugged into the bottom of the chassis-the cable goes to the reverb tank-unplug it and spray your favorite contact cleaner on the plug and plug it back in-99 times out of 100,this will fix a Nashville 400...do this with the amp unplugged,of course-hope this helps.
Hap Young
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Post by Hap Young »

Jack,
I got a sledge you can use.
Bob Metzger
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Post by Bob Metzger »

I hit my Chevy on the hood and I got reverb on my car radio!

Make sure to Re-Tension that molex connector while spraying it! (Spraying the connector helps and usually makes it work but retensioning is the key to a permanent fix.)<FONT SIZE=1 COLOR="#8e236b"><p align=CENTER>[This message was edited by Bob Metzger on 30 September 2002 at 02:01 PM.]</p></FONT>
Dave Birkett
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Post by Dave Birkett »

Having never worked with Molex connectors before, I must ask how does one retension them?
Jack Francis
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Post by Jack Francis »

Hap
Thanx, but I think you'd br better off
if you'd use it on your Sho-Bud amp.
Jack
Steve Hinson
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Post by Steve Hinson »

You can use a jeweler's screwdriver or some kind of similar tool to retension the Molex-just try to tighten the metal sleeves on the female part-I forgot to mention that(thanks Bob)...Steve
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Craig A Davidson
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Post by Craig A Davidson »

Or , If all else fails, turn off the verb and use an RV-3. I got tired of fighting mine, and repairing it.

------------------
1985 Emmons push-pull, Session 500, Nashville400, 65 re-issue Fender Twin, Fender Tele

Jack Francis
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Post by Jack Francis »

'Preciate the advice guys but I have a couple of questions. Since I aint no b0b
Lee, I am confused. I know this will sound stoopid but here goes.
I took off the wood piece and looked at the connection that goes from the reverb tank to the bottom of the chassis. There is a white plastic connector with wires running to the verb and back.
How is the connector removed or are the wires simply pulled out of the connector?
I was afraid to go further without some instruction......Help!(What do you expect from an artist?)
Jack
Bill Crook
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Post by Bill Crook »

Just grab ahold of the white plastic connector and useing a rockin' motion, pull it loose from the pins connected to the printed circuit board. After puttin' a bit more tension on the connecter pins, push the white plastic connector back onto the pins. As this plastic molex connector is keyed (so it will only go on correctly)you should have no trouble with the connection for a while.

Now as for the Speaker connection, Originally,it is a molex connector too. But, most of us (after a few times of redoing the connection) simply hardwire this connection. Problem solved !!


Mike Brown
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Post by Mike Brown »

Jack, there is a way to ensure that it is "not" a switching jack problem without even disassembling "any" part of the amp. Yes, the molex connector could be the problem, but try this first to ensure that either the POWER AMP IN jack or the RETURN jack in the PRE EQ IN jack is not switching properly. It's very simple to do.

First connect a shielded cable from the PRE AMP OUT jack on the back panel, to the POWER AMP IN jack on the back panel. If your audio signal returns, then you have a defective POWER AMP IN jack. If it doesn't return, then connect a second cable from the PRE EQ SEND JACK on the front panel to the PRE EQ RETURN jack on the front panel. If the signal returns, the PRE EQ RETURN jack is defective.

I would check this first before the molex connections. If I can be of assistance, please don't hesitate to contact me here at the factory by phoning toll free 1-877-732-8391. With the assistance of our technicians, we should be able to provide assistance.

Mike Brown
Peavey Electronics Corporation
Jack Francis
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Post by Jack Francis »

I will try that test tonite, thanx
Jack
Jack Francis
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Post by Jack Francis »

Went to practice last night, plugged my
amp in and it worked perfect so I couldn't
try the remedies.
Will keep trying.
Jack <FONT SIZE=1 COLOR="#8e236b"><p align=CENTER>[This message was edited by Jack Francis on 04 October 2002 at 05:05 PM.]</p></FONT>
Jack Francis
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Post by Jack Francis »

Played sat. night. It was perfect again...........??? I'll keep trying!
Jack