I'm Baffled
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Shaan Shirazi
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I'm Baffled
Does anyone know (or can direct me to) the specs/dimensions for a Fender Twin baffle board that will hold a 15" speaker? Thanks for your help!
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The Pickin' Paniolo
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The Pickin' Paniolo
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Bill Terry
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Shaan,
I just built one, the trick is to move the cutout to the left side, looking at the front of the amp, so the speaker clears the transformer. I'll measure mine if you want and email you the dimensions.
Bill
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I just built one, the trick is to move the cutout to the left side, looking at the front of the amp, so the speaker clears the transformer. I'll measure mine if you want and email you the dimensions.
Bill
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Jack Stoner
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The easiest way is to cut the baffle board to the size of the Twin opening. Set it in place and then position the speaker so it clears everything and mark it.
That's what I did when I put a K130 JBL in the twin I had. I don't remember if it was set off to one side or not - it was 30 years ago and I can't remember what happened 30 days ago..
That's what I did when I put a K130 JBL in the twin I had. I don't remember if it was set off to one side or not - it was 30 years ago and I can't remember what happened 30 days ago..

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Bill Terry
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Jack,
I can tell you the hole wasn't cut in the middle... Anybody want to buy a 15" speaker baffle for a Twin with the hole cut in the middle? Requires a 'thin' speaker...
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I can tell you the hole wasn't cut in the middle... Anybody want to buy a 15" speaker baffle for a Twin with the hole cut in the middle? Requires a 'thin' speaker...
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Donny Hinson
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Note: there are several different-sized cabinets (2...that I know of) used for Twin Reverbs! Note: Fender used a thin (1/2") baffle board built-up with strips on the outside...most people recommend using 3/4" birch plywood for the baffle.
Bill is right...make your own, and don't use other people's dimensions. (You might discover a quarter-inch "suprise" too late!) With some fifteens, there's less than an inch of clearance between the frame (or cone!) and the output transformer. Care in placement is required!
Cut out a new baffle board (make sure to allow clearance for the grille cloth around the edges) and then mount the blank board on the amp. Then (with both rear panels and the reverb tank removed, and the amp lying face-down) place the speaker carefully in the cabinet, and mark the screw holes (mark one hole on the baffle with a piece of tape, and place a piece of tape on the corresponding hole on the speaker). Then, remove the speaker, take out the baffle board, and use a compass (or a pair of dividers) to mark the cut-out for the speaker. Be careful---as you'll only have about a half-inch between the screw holes and the speaker cut-out!
Mount the speaker in one of two ways...if you're using "pal-nuts" drill through the baffle and then use machine screws to hold the speaker. Or, you can mount the speaker with eight #10 sheet metal screws (drill a 1/16" pilot hole to start the screws). After making the cutout, mount the speaker to the baffle (lining up the pieces of tape) and then reinstall the speaker/baffle assembly into the cabinet. Reinstall the reverb tank, rear panels, plug everything in...and pick!
Note: DO NOT use "wood screws" to mount the speaker to the baffle, as they will eventually loosen.<FONT SIZE=1 COLOR="#8e236b"><p align=CENTER>[This message was edited by Donny Hinson on 24 July 2001 at 02:47 PM.]</p></FONT>
Bill is right...make your own, and don't use other people's dimensions. (You might discover a quarter-inch "suprise" too late!) With some fifteens, there's less than an inch of clearance between the frame (or cone!) and the output transformer. Care in placement is required!
Cut out a new baffle board (make sure to allow clearance for the grille cloth around the edges) and then mount the blank board on the amp. Then (with both rear panels and the reverb tank removed, and the amp lying face-down) place the speaker carefully in the cabinet, and mark the screw holes (mark one hole on the baffle with a piece of tape, and place a piece of tape on the corresponding hole on the speaker). Then, remove the speaker, take out the baffle board, and use a compass (or a pair of dividers) to mark the cut-out for the speaker. Be careful---as you'll only have about a half-inch between the screw holes and the speaker cut-out!
Mount the speaker in one of two ways...if you're using "pal-nuts" drill through the baffle and then use machine screws to hold the speaker. Or, you can mount the speaker with eight #10 sheet metal screws (drill a 1/16" pilot hole to start the screws). After making the cutout, mount the speaker to the baffle (lining up the pieces of tape) and then reinstall the speaker/baffle assembly into the cabinet. Reinstall the reverb tank, rear panels, plug everything in...and pick!
Note: DO NOT use "wood screws" to mount the speaker to the baffle, as they will eventually loosen.<FONT SIZE=1 COLOR="#8e236b"><p align=CENTER>[This message was edited by Donny Hinson on 24 July 2001 at 02:47 PM.]</p></FONT>
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Shaan Shirazi
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Thanks for all the great advice guys. Yeah, I was hoping to be able to avoid taking the Twin apart but that looks like it as to happen. My amp guru buddy thinks he can do the whole job with a JBL reconed for 4 Ohms, Baffle and Grill for around $200 if I trade him the two 12" "Pyle Driver" speakers that are in there now, that sounds like a pretty good deal to me maybe I should leave it to the experts.
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The Pickin' Paniolo
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The Pickin' Paniolo
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Chris Lucker
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Cartwright Thompson
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If you want to spend a few bucks and have someone make a baffle for you, contact Larry Rodgers @ rodgersamps.com
He makes repro stuff,amp cabs etc,, that is absolutely PERFECT! I think he gets about $70 for a complete baffle. Nobody does a better job.
If your JBL is 8ohms, consider running the amp with 2-6550's. You need to change the screen resistors and re-bias (both minor jobs). 6550's sound great for steel.Also, by using only two power tubes your output impedence is about 8ohms.<FONT SIZE=1 COLOR="#8e236b"><p align=CENTER>[This message was edited by Cartwright Thompson on 29 July 2001 at 08:01 AM.]</p></FONT>
He makes repro stuff,amp cabs etc,, that is absolutely PERFECT! I think he gets about $70 for a complete baffle. Nobody does a better job.
If your JBL is 8ohms, consider running the amp with 2-6550's. You need to change the screen resistors and re-bias (both minor jobs). 6550's sound great for steel.Also, by using only two power tubes your output impedence is about 8ohms.<FONT SIZE=1 COLOR="#8e236b"><p align=CENTER>[This message was edited by Cartwright Thompson on 29 July 2001 at 08:01 AM.]</p></FONT>