New guitar setup
Moderator: Dave Mudgett
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Michael Gentry
- Posts: 78
- Joined: 6 Sep 2012 9:42 pm
- Location: Rock Island, Illinois
- State/Province: Illinois
- Country: United States
New guitar setup
I finally ordered a brand new guitar. Ordered an Encore 4x5. Should have it close to the end of year. Im looking for opinions on the knee lever setup. Ive been playing an MSA semi-classic 3x2 since 2012. My MSA has the (E>F on RKL) and (E>E-flat on RKR).
Im pretty comfortable with this obviously. I dont think this is how most guitars are setup. Looking for opinions on if I should switch to the standard setup that would normally come on this guitar, (E>F on LKL) (E>E-flat on LKR).
Is there some sort of natural ergonomic or practical advantage to the "normal" setup?
On the one hand it seems like I should go with what im used to but on the other im wondering if im missing out on an advantage.
Thanks
Im pretty comfortable with this obviously. I dont think this is how most guitars are setup. Looking for opinions on if I should switch to the standard setup that would normally come on this guitar, (E>F on LKL) (E>E-flat on LKR).
Is there some sort of natural ergonomic or practical advantage to the "normal" setup?
On the one hand it seems like I should go with what im used to but on the other im wondering if im missing out on an advantage.
Thanks
Semi-Classic Encore!
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Tucker Jackson
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Re: New guitar setup
Hi, Michael.
A sizeable minority of players have the E changes on the right knee. More specifically, the E-lower is somewhat common, but the E-raise on that right knee...is less common. But people do one or both of those on the right knee and seem to like it.
The E-raise and E-lower are the most-used knee changes. I personally find it a little harder to do subtle volume pedal work when my right knee is flying around. I find it easier to work the floor pedals in that situation, so those E-changes don't bother me when they are on the left knee. That's the way most steelers do it.
The other (really small) issue is that since "E's on the Right" is a less common setup than "E's on the left," it will make it harder for you to sit at somebody else's steel (and vice versa). And it may be harder to someday sell unless you're willing to re-rod it.
The main determinant is what you're most comfortable with. If you ask people why they have their E-lower on a right knee, they'll usually say it's because their first steel came set up that way. Sho-Bud, in particular, used to ship their steels that way, so a whole cohort of players who started in the 1970s on Buds have stuck with that, and they do fine. In later eras, steel manufacturers tended to suggest a "Most Requested" copedent that included E's on the left knee, probably mimicking Buddy Emmon's setup. So people got used to that. It's largely a personal preference and 'familiarity' thing.
But if you decide to change knees, I've done it and it only took about 2 days for the brain to rewire a new pathway.
A sizeable minority of players have the E changes on the right knee. More specifically, the E-lower is somewhat common, but the E-raise on that right knee...is less common. But people do one or both of those on the right knee and seem to like it.
The E-raise and E-lower are the most-used knee changes. I personally find it a little harder to do subtle volume pedal work when my right knee is flying around. I find it easier to work the floor pedals in that situation, so those E-changes don't bother me when they are on the left knee. That's the way most steelers do it.
The other (really small) issue is that since "E's on the Right" is a less common setup than "E's on the left," it will make it harder for you to sit at somebody else's steel (and vice versa). And it may be harder to someday sell unless you're willing to re-rod it.
The main determinant is what you're most comfortable with. If you ask people why they have their E-lower on a right knee, they'll usually say it's because their first steel came set up that way. Sho-Bud, in particular, used to ship their steels that way, so a whole cohort of players who started in the 1970s on Buds have stuck with that, and they do fine. In later eras, steel manufacturers tended to suggest a "Most Requested" copedent that included E's on the left knee, probably mimicking Buddy Emmon's setup. So people got used to that. It's largely a personal preference and 'familiarity' thing.
But if you decide to change knees, I've done it and it only took about 2 days for the brain to rewire a new pathway.
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Bobby D. Jones
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Re: New guitar setup
Steel Guitar set up has no world wide standard, Like a piano.
There is no standard on knee levers. Many guitars have raise and lower E's on left knee. If guitar is set up Emmons pedals, LKL raise E's, LKR lower E's. If the guitar is set up Day pedals, LKL lowers E's, LKR Raises E's. This has knee and foot rolling in same direction on B pedal and lower E's for 7th chord. Roll knee and foot other direction, for A pedal and Raise E's, Bar up neck 3 frets for same chord.
Some guitars are set up with E raise on 1 knee, Lower on other knee, That allows a smooth raise motion from D# to F, Or lower F to D# with no pause in travel.
Guitars setup with Jeff Newman's 12 string universal has raise RKL and lowers on RKR.
I think Mr. Anderson set up MSA guitars with E's on right knee.
How knee levers are set up is a personal choice.
Good Luck in your choice, Happy Steelin.
There is no standard on knee levers. Many guitars have raise and lower E's on left knee. If guitar is set up Emmons pedals, LKL raise E's, LKR lower E's. If the guitar is set up Day pedals, LKL lowers E's, LKR Raises E's. This has knee and foot rolling in same direction on B pedal and lower E's for 7th chord. Roll knee and foot other direction, for A pedal and Raise E's, Bar up neck 3 frets for same chord.
Some guitars are set up with E raise on 1 knee, Lower on other knee, That allows a smooth raise motion from D# to F, Or lower F to D# with no pause in travel.
Guitars setup with Jeff Newman's 12 string universal has raise RKL and lowers on RKR.
I think Mr. Anderson set up MSA guitars with E's on right knee.
How knee levers are set up is a personal choice.
Good Luck in your choice, Happy Steelin.
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Michael Gentry
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Michael Gentry
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Chris Brooks
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Re: New guitar setup
Michael, I have both the E changes on the right knee--and like that setup.
Ergonomics? I feel they are better with the Es on the right knee. That way you split the functions: RKR, lowering E to D#, left foot works Pedal B. With E to E# (i.e. F), left foot works Pedal A.
And the left knee is then free to hit another change.
Ergonomics? I feel they are better with the Es on the right knee. That way you split the functions: RKR, lowering E to D#, left foot works Pedal B. With E to E# (i.e. F), left foot works Pedal A.
And the left knee is then free to hit another change.
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Tommy Mc
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Re: New guitar setup
Michael, I have my E lower on RKL because that's how it was on the steel I learned on. There wasn't an E raise on that guitar. When I bought my next steel, it had the more common setup of both E's on the left. I gave it a fair try, but couldn't get used to having my "most used" E lower in a new location. So I changed it back to RKL. Never having had the E raise before, I left it on LKL. So now my E's are split between both legs. I've recently become aware that Paul Franklin has his E's in the same location, so maybe it's not the worst setup.
My current guitar also came with both E's on the left, but again, I changed it around to what I'm used to. Not a big deal. On the rare occasion that I've tried other people's steels, it took me a little readjusting. I guess that's a downside if you do that much. If I was ordering a new steel, I wouldn't hesitate to set it up the way I'm used to. It's the other 2 or 3 levers you want to think about. One lever will probably lower 2&9. Another to raise 1 and either raise 7 or lower 6. I'm sure you'll get more suggestions.
My current guitar also came with both E's on the left, but again, I changed it around to what I'm used to. Not a big deal. On the rare occasion that I've tried other people's steels, it took me a little readjusting. I guess that's a downside if you do that much. If I was ordering a new steel, I wouldn't hesitate to set it up the way I'm used to. It's the other 2 or 3 levers you want to think about. One lever will probably lower 2&9. Another to raise 1 and either raise 7 or lower 6. I'm sure you'll get more suggestions.
1980 MSA Vintage XL S-10, 1975 Session 400
1972 Dobro model 66s
Derby SD-10
Tom McDonough
1972 Dobro model 66s
Derby SD-10
Tom McDonough