Mullen G2 / Replacing return springs

[John Palumbo]

I'm looking to replace the 4th and 8th return springs on my Mullen G2-S10.
I would think that it is best in removing them to just un-wind the adjustment screw all the way til the spring becomes free and just then un-hook it from the finger. But it seems more complicated in putting in a new one. Do you connect it to the adjustment screw first, then try to stretch it with needle nose plyers to hook it to the hole in the finger. Or is it best to hook it to the finger first then to the adjustment screw. But that may be more difficult because the Mullen has a bottom flange on the endplate, where the adjustment screws fit to the springs.
Perhaps maybe I'm making a simple job, more difficult more than it really is. But just thought I would ask in advance, before messing anything up. Thanks in Advance.

John P.

[Dave Grafe]

I always hook the spring onto the finger first and then thread the screw into the captive nut. Often as not the nut is skewed sideways inside the spring and doesn't want to cooperate but if I poke at it with various tiny tools and cuss at it enough it eventually straightens out long enough to latch the screw threads properly.

Trying to hook the spring after it is attached to the screw tends to bend the spring end permanently, which involves way more cussing than just doing that part first.

YMMV

[Jerry Overstreet]

Not a G2, but on my PRPs I always just loosened up the string to relieve some tension on the spring then unscrew. To replace I hook the spring in the scissor finger first and then put in the screw.

With the tension off the string, it's fairly easy to hold the finger back against the plate while you install the screw. It is a little tricky getting it started as the loose spring wants to flop around.

Again, I'm not sure about the G2, but this works for me on PRPs.

[John Palumbo]

Thanks Dave and Jerry!
I also e-mailed Mullen and they pretty much agree with your opinions.