Sho Bud Parts

[Barry Coker]

I recently made up some replacement fingers for an old Sho-Bud 3/2 changer these are 6061 T6 Aluminum and are a direct replacement for the old Pot Metal fingers that are worn beyond repair. As you can see these have Pins to attach the strings rather than the groove Sho-Bud used this is done that way to reduce the time required to make these and keep cost down. The two sets of 10 here have been installed and are in use both the repair tech and guitar owner say the sound is great.










Barry

[Ricky Davis]

WOW; Barry, that is the PERFECT fix for "Sound" and "Movement" in every sho-bud model from 1978 to end of production.
Great work.
Ricky

[Barry Coker]

Thanks Ricky would you happen to know the exact rivit type and size of these.

Barry

[Ricky Davis]

Thanks Ricky would you happen to know the exact rivet type and size of these.

I'm sorry; Barry I don't know> I've never taken one apart. michael@psgparts.com would probably know; that is his email if you want to shoot him that question.
Ricky

[Barry Coker]

Thats fine Ricky I have a couple of the old ones I'm using for pattern templets I can figure it out just didn't know if they were Stainless Steel or some kind of coated. Thanks for the answer sir.

Barry

[Ian Worley]

It's unlikely you'll find the correct size shoulder rivets without ordering thousands, but Hanson Rivet often has misc stuff on hand, you can check with them to see what they have available. Their website lists the various stuff they have in stock by size/type/material https://www.hansonrivet.com/rivets/shoulder-rivets-3/. I did get a hundred or so from them once in the correct size but that was years ago. For the most part the way I have always made replacement rivets for new fingers is to use plain semi-tubular rivets of the correct diameter (the smaller tenon) and turn brass bushings on the lathe to match the correct shoulder diameter and length like in the pic below.

For that approach the correct size rivet is 0.141" diameter, min 0.28125" (9/32) up to ~0.3125" (5/16) length, truss head, semi tubular. The shoulder bushing outer diameter is 0.187", length is 0.094". The original rivets are plated steel of some sort, stainless or nickel plated steel will be the best choice for new.

Just an observation, but it appears in your pic above that the string pin is set a bit high on the fingers. The string wrap at end could potential overlap the the apex of the finger, particularly on a lower. It's an easy fix, but it sounds like they're already in use and working fine so maybe not an issue.

[Ian Worley]

I sent this to someone a while back, I'm guessing it might be the person Barry made the fingers for. His name was Mike. In case anyone else might be interested, here is a dimensioned drawing of a replacement finger for later model Buds. The geometry is tweaked slightly from the original shape, there's more clearance at the lower rivet, and there are a couple of details you'll just need to observe on the original part like cutting the bevel/countersink in the rivet hole for cinching the rivet, etc. The 1/16" string pin is centered ~15/16" down from the apex of the finger, with a 10 degree downward angle. This placement still allows for the addition of split screws in the changer housing, 8-32 x 1" are ideal.



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[Barry Coker]

Thanks Ian that info helps a lot on the brad sizes I haven't seen that exact drawing wish I had before I started this as far as the pin position mine are just above the brad hole and about an 80 deg. as in your picture. I checked several strings but none seemed to have an issue. I may lower the pin on the next set to make sure.

Thanks again
Barry

[Steven Black]

Barry did up my MSA bell cranks and did a wonderful work on them, guys if you need a part or more made he is a pro, I recommend Barry Coker.

[Barry Coker]

Thanks Steven

[memphislim]

Kudos Barry!
I think these would work on many more Buds from 70-80's. The originals are sold on Ebay for Mavericks but they are identical, in all ways except maybe material, to the ones on my 2/2 changer from a 77' Pro III, 3/2 changer from a Super pro and a recent Maverick Pull release guitar I had in the shop. The slot delete/pin add is a definite improvement too as I just had to remove and pin the Pro III's C6 string ten as it was blown out by string width.

One more improvement you could make is mill the end out a little shallower to allow the lower finger further travel. I had to do this to the same Pro III to get the 2nd string to lower all the way to C#. The finger would start to raise at a certain point once finger met the rivet. Thinning it out where the rivet touches the finger during a lower so it can pass was the solution. Area I'm speaking of shown in red:





If you're able to source the rivets, please let us know where.

[Ian Worley]

Kudos Barry!
I think these would work on many more Buds from 70-80's. The originals are sold on Ebay for Mavericks but they are identical, in all ways except maybe material, to the ones on my 2/2 changer from a 77' Pro III, 3/2 changer from a Super pro and a recent Maverick Pull release guitar I had in the shop. The slot delete/pin add is a definite improvement too as I just had to remove and pin the Pro III's C6 string ten as it was blown out by string width.

One more improvement you could make is mill the end out a little shallower to allow the lower finger further travel. I had to do this to the same Pro III to get the 2nd string to lower all the way to C#. The finger would start to raise at a certain point once finger met the rivet. Thinning it out where the rivet touches the finger during a lower so it can pass was the solution. Area I'm speaking of shown in red:

If you're able to source the rivets, please let us know where.

The picture you re-posted is actually one of my fingers, not Barry's. It does already have the added rivet clearance on the end to make longer lowers possible, that's what is depicted in the shop drawing I posted above (as explained in that post). As far as the shoulder rivets, again read above, they're not something you're likely to find in the correct size unless you order many thousands of them from Hansen or someone similar, but 0.141" diameter x 0.28125" long truss head semi-tubular rivets ARE available. Fabricating a brass bushing for the "shoulder" is a quick and simple operation. I've made a couple hundred of these, they work perfectly.

You are correct that for all Sho-Bud fingers from the 2/2 on, the finger tops are interchangeable, any finger with a two piece scissor. There were a couple of different castings with slight differences on the bottom raise helper nub, but functionally/geometrically they are all the same.

[John Groover McDuffie]

This is fantastic and what I have been wanting for years!

[Bud Angelotti]

Would these work on a (gulp) Maverick not only to replace the worn pot metal but to add a raise or lower on the Mav ?
Thanks,
Bud

[Barry Coker]

Hey Bud I am not sure the Maverick fingers look very close but I have nor put them together to compaire.

Barry

[memphislim]

If your Maverick's fingers look like these:



yes, the will replace them but using them alone will not add a raise or lower to your guitar.

[Bud Angelotti]

Thanks! Hmmm.

[Dave Zirbel]

Hi Barry. Are you open for business? I might be interested in some . Thanks
Dave

[Barry Coker]

Hey Dave I think I'm always open I can fix you up sir PM me if you have any questions.

Barry