Solderless cables

Nic du Toit · Post by **Nic du Toit** » 14 Aug 2005 2:40 am

What a pain!!.
I ordered some George L cable together with 'solderless' jacks. If you can manage to make up one cable that works, then surely the gods are smiling on you. Guess I'll have to go out and buy normal 'solder' type jacks. I suggest the designers go back the drawing board and design a jack that works. I tried all kinds of conection permutations, but 99% of the time the lot still shorts out. These plugs are "Al Crappo!!".

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<img align=left src="http://home.telkomsa.net/peterden/al%20saut/images/nightmarefront85.jpg" border="0">Nic du Toit
1970 Rosewood P/P Emmons D10 Fatback 8x4
Peavey Session 500 unmodfied

My CD "Nightmare on Emmons Steel"
<A class=db href="mailto:alsaut@absamail.co.za?subject=Forum Reply">Click here to E-mail us.</A>

John Daugherty · Post by **John Daugherty** » 14 Aug 2005 4:25 am

Nic, maybe you are not putting the plug on correctly. Just cut the end of the cable with cutters. Then push the cable into the plug,firmly. Now, tighten the screw enough to bite into the shield wire. Do not try to strip the insulation,or prepare it in any way. Just cut it.
If you are using dull cutters, you may be mashing the shield and center conductor together.
I have used these cable for years and just bought another 100' roll from Jerry Newberry at the Branson Jam. Would Jerry sell me something that wouldn't work????????? .......... Naaaa .

Jon Light (deceased) · Post by **Jon Light (deceased)** » 14 Aug 2005 4:44 am

Other than the fact that the right angle connectors tend to need retightening at the screw, I have never had a problem or a failure with the George L's. A couple of times I had to redo a right angle connection that didn't take--they are a little trickier than the straight plugs. I've got pedalboard short lengths, mid lengths for leg clip-on apparatus and standard lengths---probably about 30 connectors total. No issues at all and I wouldn't put up with a product that caused me grief.

Bob Knight · Post by **Bob Knight** » 14 Aug 2005 5:19 am

Nic,
Try cutting the cable with a sharp knife while rolling the cable slightly as you cut. Make sure it is pushed fully into the connector and tighten the set screw just snugly as not to crush the cable. I've used these cables for over 20 years with basically no problems.

Bob

[This message was edited by Bob Knight on 14 August 2005 at 06:19 AM.]

Bob Martin · Post by **Bob Martin** » 14 Aug 2005 6:08 am

Hi guys, is there someone here on the board that is selling George L's. If so I would like to contact them and get some prices and if not where do you guys buy your George L cables and ends?

Bob

Bob Knight · Post by **Bob Knight** » 14 Aug 2005 6:14 am

Bobbe Seymour!!

Jack Stoner · Post by **Jack Stoner** » 14 Aug 2005 7:00 am

Seymour, Paul Franklin Sr, direct from George Lewis (?), Joe Wright and probably more around "Nashvul".

ADDED: The straight George L's plugs and cable are great. 99.9% of the time I can make a good connection the first time. If I have a problem it's the ground and I didn't screw the set screw in far enough (you don't want it going too far).

As mentioned the end must be cut square and make sure the braid (ground) does not interfere with the center conductor. With the amount of problems you are having it's obvious the cable is not being prepared correctly and may not be fully inserted into the connector.

The right angle connectors leave a lot to be desired, even for me and I'm an electronics tech. [This message was edited by Jack Stoner on 14 August 2005 at 08:04 AM.]

Mark Herrick · Post by **Mark Herrick** » 14 Aug 2005 9:25 am

The best way I have found to cut these cables is with a single-edged razor blade. You have to use a new blade, a small block of wood or a cutting board and be quick and straight. Any kind of scissor-like cutting tool will deform the cable and the little pins inside the plug barrel will not make good contact.

I have also found that over time it's a good idea to occasionally remove the plug and cut the cable again (above the point where the retaining screw was) to insure that it still has a good connection.

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Dick Wood · Post by **Dick Wood** » 14 Aug 2005 10:53 am

Nic, After 30 something years of using solder type cables and burning my finger more times than I've been married,I tried the Geo L's to see what everyone was talking about.

I found them to work great and the best part is that if you are at a gig and the cable goes bad,you can fix it in matter of seconds unlike the solder type.

They seem to hold up great as I've tripped over them on numerous occasions jerking the cable out of the amp and it still worked fine.

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Cops aren't paid much so I steel at night.

Joey Ace · Post by **Joey Ace** » 14 Aug 2005 1:21 pm

I'll add my thumbs up for George L solderless cables.

I've been an Elec. Tech since the 70s so I'm no stranger to soldering. I never believed a solderless connection could be as good. I am now a believer.

I've used these cables for over five years. I've also experienced the right angle ones need occasional tightening, but it no big deal.

If they aren't working for you, you either have a bad batch, or are missing something in your assembly technique.

I've never heard of a bad batch, but I guess it could happen.[This message was edited by Joey Ace on 14 August 2005 at 02:22 PM.]

Keith Cordell · Post by **Keith Cordell** » 14 Aug 2005 3:19 pm

I've been using these cables since the '80's, I still have a couple that are some of the first I bought; they are the best, most convenient cable on the market. You can't expect them to perform if you don't have a razor or very sharp cutters, as the end must be intact to make a proper connection. I only use the right angle connectors, and never have a problem.

Charles Davidson · Post by **Charles Davidson** » 14 Aug 2005 4:19 pm

I've used these cables for years,never had one problem.

Bob Martin · Post by **Bob Martin** » 14 Aug 2005 7:29 pm

Thanks guys, I'll give Bobbe a call and go up and get some from him.

Bob

Craig A Davidson · Post by **Craig A Davidson** » 14 Aug 2005 7:56 pm

George L cables are my favorites also.

Nic du Toit · Post by **Nic du Toit** » 15 Aug 2005 2:55 am

Bob, if makes sense what you say. I think I was too vigorous in turning the earth screw.
Most propably squashed the cable, causing it to short out. I now used less turns and things are working just fine. Thanks guys. I was just peeved when I did my original post, but all is forgiven and I will continue using George L cables and plugs.
Regards,
Nic

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<img align=left src="http://home.telkomsa.net/peterden/al%20saut/images/nightmarefront85.jpg" border="0">Nic du Toit
1970 Rosewood P/P Emmons D10 Fatback 8x4
Peavey Session 500 unmodfied

My CD "Nightmare on Emmons Steel"
<A class=db href="mailto:alsaut@absamail.co.za?subject=Forum Reply">Click here to E-mail us.</A>

Per Berner · Post by **Per Berner** » 15 Aug 2005 6:41 am

I have half a dozen George L cables by now, none of them has ever failed - as opposed to every other cable that I have ever soldered... And they're available in most music stores, world-wide!

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´75 Emmons p/p D10 8+4, '96 Emmons Legrande II D10 8+5, Peavey Nashville 1000

Brad Sarno · Post by **Brad Sarno** » 15 Aug 2005 7:47 am

George Lewis' daughter who runs the booth at the steel shows showed me how to properly set the screws. You should tighten the screw to where the top of the screw is level with the very top of the threads and no deeper. This will safely break the outer insulation but not break thru to the inner conductor causing a short.

I've had great success with the straight plugs, but the right angle ones tend to lose their ground over time and need to be treated with more care.

Good Luck,

Brad

Jim Florence · Post by **Jim Florence** » 15 Aug 2005 9:38 am

You guys didn't notice it but Nic is turning the "Earth" screw, and not the "Ground" screw. That could be the problem.

Nic du Toit · Post by **Nic du Toit** » 15 Aug 2005 9:54 am

Jim,
Ok, Ok.
I was raised on the Queen's English, and in our neck of the woods we call it 'earth' (as to 'ground'). At times I forget to translate things into 'American'. But, you may be right, I'll check the ground screw!
Regards,
Nic

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<img align=left src="http://home.telkomsa.net/peterden/al%20saut/images/nightmarefront85.jpg" border="0">Nic du Toit
1970 Rosewood P/P Emmons D10 Fatback 8x4
Peavey Session 500 unmodfied

My CD "Nightmare on Emmons Steel"
<A class=db href="mailto:alsaut@absamail.co.za?subject=Forum Reply">Click here to E-mail us.</A>

Jack Stoner · Post by **Jack Stoner** » 15 Aug 2005 1:44 pm

Nic, I knew what you were referring to, having worked in Europe. I also know what "mains" and a "valve" are.

Here in the US "earth ground" is a fairly common term. In some electronic equipment there is the "earth ground" and "signal ground".

Jim Florence · Post by **Jim Florence** » 15 Aug 2005 2:01 pm

Just joshing Nic, no offense intended.

Paddy Long · Post by **Paddy Long** » 15 Aug 2005 5:45 pm

Actually george L have a nice little cable checker which is very handy to carry in your steel seat -- it makes checking a dodgie connection a 2 second job -- and of course recutting and reconnecting only takes another 5 secs, then your back on the job. I don't carry a soldering iron on out of town gigs anymore thats for sure.

Hook Moore · Post by **Hook Moore** » 16 Aug 2005 6:04 am

Very trouble free and easy to make. I use a drop of locite on the right angel connections and they never loosen up on their own.
Hook

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www.HookMoore.com

Charlie McDonald · Post by **Charlie McDonald** » 17 Aug 2005 3:57 am

Thanks Nic, for posting this, as I have felt like dummy for years, having tried to do four and only gotten a connection on one.
I kept them around for some reason, and will take these suggestions to them.

CrowBear Schmitt · Post by **CrowBear Schmitt** » 17 Aug 2005 7:11 am

i use them GL's & they work fine fer me

no probs yet after 2 years