I have a rack mount Audio Technica ATW-R11 reciever for my hand held and head set mics. On the back is a jack for the wall wart to plug in. It is loose..and i have to wiggle the daylights out of the end of the power cable, then wrap the power cable around the latch of the rack case to keep contact. No screws on the jack..BEFORE i tear it all apart. can i tighten that jack up in the inside, or is it soldered or something? i can still use the unit like it is..for awhile, should i leave it alone, and order a new jack, then tear it down, or is it fixable? i need it friday night..a toughy i know....
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Whitney Single 12 8FL & 5 KN,keyless, dual changers Extended C6th, Webb Amp, Line6 PodXT, Goodrich Curly Chalker Volume Pedal, Match Bro, BJS Bar..I was keyless....when keyless wasn't cool....
George, it is,most likely, soldered diectly to the circuit board. Remove the case,look at the "solder" side of the board. You will see that the solder has broken loose on the one or more of the 3 pins holding it to the board. Reslder the pins, using a good deal of solder,for strength. This is a very common problem which I encounter regularly.
I got it fixed John, and working just as good as new.
<img height=300 width=400 src=http://tinypic.com/8vrbd0.jpg
and i only tighted the circuit board down just snug enough to hold it in place and not crack it...thank you so very much for you help. That is what this Forum is all about. Nice folks like you that will help others. A donation is on the way to Bobby Lee, for my appreciation to both of you...again thank you
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Whitney Single 12 8FL & 5 KN,keyless, dual changers Extended C6th, Webb Amp, Line6 PodXT, Goodrich Curly Chalker Volume Pedal, Match Bro, BJS Bar..I was keyless....when keyless wasn't cool....
<font size="1" color="#8e236b"><p align="center">[This message was edited by George Redmon on 13 July 2005 at 08:22 PM.]</p></FONT><font size="1" color="#8e236b"><p align="center">[This message was edited by George Redmon on 13 July 2005 at 08:29 PM.]</p></FONT><font size="1" color="#8e236b"><p align="center">[This message was edited by George Redmon on 13 July 2005 at 08:30 PM.]</p></FONT><font size="1" color="#8e236b"><p align="center">[This message was edited by George Redmon on 13 July 2005 at 10:11 PM.]</p></FONT>
Way to go George... Good Job.......
You may want to invest in a pencil-type soldering iron (about 30 watt range) for those little jobs. They are inexpensive and easy to use........... Good luck ......JD
Definately get a low wattage soldering "iron". The type you have there can zap IC's with the AC field, just being close to one let alone the high heat.
i called Parts Express in Dayton, and they fixed me up with everything i need, including a variable heat range corless iron, and flux, and all kinds of neat stuff..they told me i could solder a car radiator with the one i have..oh i did use a heat sink....but i still want the right stuff..got'r covered guys.....
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Whitney Single 12 8FL & 5 KN,keyless, dual changers Extended C6th, Webb Amp, Line6 PodXT, Goodrich Curly Chalker Volume Pedal, Match Bro, BJS Bar..I was keyless....when keyless wasn't cool....
Mr Stoner it does come with Rosin, and Flux, a stand, cleaner, extra tips, a small "Helping Hand" type of deal...might come in handy to repair guitar cables, a few other things..but i will call right now and have them send me a "Corded" 30 watt...you guys are life savers...i wanted the wireless one for soldering guitar cables..Thanks Mr Stoner..it's done...oh..and i did use "Rosin Core".....i use to do terminal soldering for the {gulp}...phone company
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Whitney Single 12 8FL & 5 KN,keyless, dual changers Extended C6th, Webb Amp, Line6 PodXT, Goodrich Curly Chalker Volume Pedal, Match Bro, BJS Bar..I was keyless....when keyless wasn't cool....
<font size="1" color="#8e236b"><p align="center">[This message was edited by George Redmon on 14 July 2005 at 10:35 AM.]</p></FONT>