Prep Chrome Plate for Black Out?

[Jerry Overstreet]

I'm about to black out a chrome cover plate and sound screens for a reso. Any tips on prepping the chrome for good paint adhesion other than cleaning, degreasing? Any ideas for etching the surface. Experiences?

I have some industrial metal paint that reads no primer necessary. I've read using a sanding block or light steel wool but I don't want to put scratches in there. Scotch Brite? What grit?

There will be a lot of contact on the cover plate with the hand so would like to avoid dull smudges, peeling etc. over time.

[Brooks Montgomery]

Maybe order a black cover plate? Or are they crazy expensive ? I’d be worried about scratches with shiny chrome showing thru.

I’m not very good at painting metal, never figured out how to get a resilient cover up.

[Jerry Overstreet]

Dunno what they cost, but at least more than I want to pay. Poor boys have poor ways. Anyway, I already have spare parts on hand just trying to figure the best way to prep them so the finish will last. Probably going to go with the Scotch Brite if I can decide which grit to use, then the industrial metal paint.

I figured somebody here has done this and could share some tips.

I have time and material if a do over is necessary.

Thanks for your input.

[George Piburn]

#0000 steel wool will give a finer finish - opposed to any grit scotch brite.

You can add some auto compound polish if you want a more shiny pre finish.

Main thing to keep in mind is to wash the metal in lacquer thinner and a completely clean soft cloth to remove all debris and hand oils etc. Before applying any paint.

[Jerry Overstreet]

Thanks for the tips George. No, I don't want a brite finish I'm using a semi-gloss paint to match the existing black hdwe. Just looking for a smooth finish. I have acetone and alcohol for cleaning. Reckon that's sufficient?

[George Piburn]

acetone is good - use blue gloves and a respirator in a well ventilated area.

Isopropyl is OK -- 90% is better , and Denatured is better and completely evaporates..

I would still use #0000 steel wool over scotch brite of any grit.

[Chris Clem]

I don't think there a is a paint made that you can put over chrome. It is not a question of prep or scuffing the surface at all. You just can't do it. You would need to remove the chrome down to bare metal in order to paint it. Probably better to buy a raw brass replacement.......that could be painted.

[Gary Meixner]

Jerry,

I would try muriatic acid. It is cheap and you can get it the hardware store.

Gary

[Jerry Overstreet]

Thanks Gary, I'll check it out. I'm familiar with it's use in concrete and mortar applications, but not for metal, however it may be an option.

For those concerned about safety, I'm aware of the hazards of using strong acids like this.

[Gary Meixner]

Jerry,

Yes the same stuff used on concrete. Work outdoors and wear gloves. Depending on the concentration you might get by with suspendig the part above a tray of the solution, cover it with black plastic, put out in the sun and let the vapor work on it slowly. You are not trying to do much, just etch the surface. You will want the part to be very clean, any grease or oils will act as a resist. Also check with a local car club - hot rod guys are always screwing around with chrome parts and I bet they have some neat tricks

good luck,

Gary

[Jerry Overstreet]

Thank you Gary. I really appreciate your expertise and taking time to offer tips using this product.

What's your recommendation to neutralize the acid treatment prior to painting?

[Bill Groner]

I'm about to black out a chrome cover plate and sound screens for a reso. Any tips on prepping the chrome for good paint adhesion other than cleaning, degreasing? Any ideas for etching the surface. Experiences?

I have some industrial metal paint that reads no primer necessary. I've read using a sanding block or light steel wool but I don't want to put scratches in there. Scotch Brite? What grit?

There will be a lot of contact on the cover plate with the hand so would like to avoid dull smudges, peeling etc. over time.
[/quote

Jerry,
I had the same idea with mine.....I was actually thinking of buying some aftermarket parts that were satin black. I ran the idea past a knowledgeable dobro playin forumite. He made me realize what I already had in the back of my mind. He said the sound rings might be difficult to remove and if you aren't careful the finish on the guitar could be compromised. He also added with buying aftermarket parts many of them may not fit properly :ie screw holes may need to be drilled larger and or may not match the holes already in your dobro. If the sound holes are too big, you will need to resize with tape, if the holes in the body are too small then you will have to open them up carefully with a drum sander on a dremel. Another chance for disaster. If holes in the dobro don't match up with the new plate, well that will be another problem.

The rings are the easy part to strip. The tailpiece a little more difficult, but the cover plate, I think will be a nightmare. The guy I talked to said if you are changing things just to mod the appearance, well to each his own. He finished up his email to me with this.....if the dobro has good tone, plays well, and you are happy with it, then just play it. He said cosmetics are just that..........lipstick on a pig and mean nothing as far as sound, and playability! I left mine alone and just put up with the dull spots on the chrome from my hand.

I realize you aren't talking new parts just trying to find out the best way to black out your parts. I wish you luck with that. I am posting what I found out and hopefully if someone is thinking about swapping parts, maybe this post might give some food for thought?

Thanks so much HP for making me come to my senses!

[Jerry Overstreet]

Thanks for your input. Points taken. All good things for consideration.

Well, I'm not buying parts and the sound hole rings are already out. The tailpiece is a black Hipshot, so are the tuning machines. This is how the guitar came to me.

The cover plate is a spare. I don't care if I have to refin it or redo it as much as necessary. I'm committed to the procedure so I'll just have to see how it works out. I'm pretty confident I can do a presentable job, just looking for input on the best way to insure good paint adhesion and resistance to fade and wear.

[Brooks Montgomery]

Hey Jerry, what about Rhino Shield paint (truck bed paint)? Or would it ‘deaden’ the plate too much?

[Jerry Overstreet]

I considered that Brooks, but I think it would be too rough. Maybe something similar but I was trying to match the existing black hdwe.

I wouldn't be concerned about deadening the sound though. Dont think that would be an issue.

Still time for thinking....gotta wait until the weather is more forgiving anyhoo.

[Greg Forsyth]

Hi Jerry,
Didn't see if anyone suggested it yet,
If you have access to a bead/sand blaster you might try that to clean the chrome off the metal.

[Jack Hanson]

Just a thought...

When I refinished a v1 white Gibson Ultratone while visiting my late father in Southern Arizona a few winters ago, I brought its corroded and pitted chromed steel pickup mounting plate into a local Tucson plating shop that did a substantial business in the re-plating of chromed parts for motorcycles and hot rods. Before replating it to perfection, they obviously had to strip off what remained of its corroded and pitted original chrome plating.

Therefore, I would recommend searching for a local plating shop that specializes in refurbishing parts for bikers and car nuts. They likely could also best advise you on how to best prep the stripped piece for painting.

Good luck!

[Jerry Overstreet]

All good suggestions. Obviously, I'm looking to do this on the cheap but everything is being considered. Thanks for the input.

[Fred]

When I was a painter, I used Zinnser BIN on anything that other paint or primer might not stick to. I've used it on metal, shiny ceramic tile and glass. I've never used it on anything chrome plated, but I'd certainly try it. It's available in spray cans.

I'd use red Scotch Brite to break the surface. It will fill the minor scratches made by the Scotch Brite and leave a smooth finish. If it's not smooth enough for your needs, it can be sanded with whatever grit will get the finish you're looking for. You can spray any lacquer or water based finish over it.

[Gary Meixner]

Jerry,

I don't think you will need to worry about neutralizing the acid, just be sure to wash the surface with soap and rinse with a lot of clean water. You will need to decide how you want to dispose of the solution once it has etched the chrome. If you soak the parts in acid you will have an acid heavy metal solution to deal with. If the vapor method works you will have just a plain acid solution which is easier to get rid of.

By the way, use isopropyl alcohol as the final cleaner before painting. It is a good degreasing agent and doesnt leave residue. Acetone and lacquer thinner evaporate to fast and can leave a film.

There are plenty of better appraoches, but as a DIY, low cost method this is what I would suggest. These are not high wear parts, they are not subject to heat, weather, solvents, etc. I bet with a little care what ever you do will hold up pretty well. If it doesnt, strip off the paint and do it again. I will suggest again connecting with a local car club. It wouldnt surprise one bit if you found someone willing help as a favor. You can go back a play them a song when your all done.

Gary

[Bill Groner]

Little Deuce Coupe???

[BJ Burbach]

I actually think that this a a pretty unique guitar and I totally agree that it would be awesome to make it all black hardware. If Beard stuff fits, it would be something like $325 to do and you get anodized finish, which will beat the heck out of paint as well as keep up the overall value. I just love some of those designs. (Rosetta??) You already got a great price and the hipshot basically for free, so you are still way on the winning side. I would do rings, but don't drop that bar .
The other issue is to check out whether the cone has been crunched, because if so, it might get a lot better than what you have now. I took an old completely destroyed dobro, put a BC-1 cone in it and it is just a super guitar, now. (kudo to resobits)
I don't have much money to blow either, so I hear you, believe me.
Still, If it were me, I would play it for awhile to see if it really works for you and get in to see the cone at some point and measure to check whether Jim used a beard cover and then decide what it's fate is.
You get a good breath of that acid, you are hurt bad. If you want it black now, sand it with Tri-a-mite paper and paint it, but I will say that the bones are super solid. That figured Braz wood is just not common on any guitar.
Disclaimer, you know I am an Adams fanboy and happy hour is going late tonight. Sorry to be so forward.
BJ

[Jerry Overstreet]

Disclaimer, you know I am an Adams fanboy and happy hour is going late tonight. Sorry to be so forward.
BJ

Ha! No, not at all. Always glad to have your input. Actually, I'm really pretty happy with the sound of this guitar. It's pretty sweet and balanced all the way up and IMO has a nicer growl and tone than one of my prior large bodied instruments. It is just not quite as loud.

I appreciate your suggestions and will evaluate those along with the others.

I also appreciate everyone's suggestions on my ideas, both positive and negative. Thanks.

[BJ Burbach]

I woke up and remembered that this was an unfinished body only that David Venzke finished, so if the holes don't match up for a new cover, you can take it to a plating shop for anodizing black. Any machinist knows a good one and sometimes you can get a good deal because they just sneak it in to the tank along with other jobs. They do great work.
Like was mentioned, watch out pulling the screens.
BJ

[Jerry Overstreet]

Thanks BJ. I already determined my spare cover plate matches up to the existing one. As I stated earlier, the sound hole screens had popped out in shipping so no problems there.

I ride with my buddy as a w/s setter helper sometimes who owns a mobile glass company. They do in shop custom jobs on street rods and show cars too, so I'm sure he knows of techs etc. that do metal treatment. I'll see if he can help me there.

My first though was vinyl wrap, but that would be a nightmare with all those punches!