Williams Strings sounding muted.

[Christopher Hillman]

Hi all,

I decided to have another go at my Williams. I bought it 2 years ago and ended up stripping it down, cleaning everything and rebuilding it to the correct U12 copedent. Even as a body without any rods the strings have always had a muted tone to them. I've tried spinning the roller nuts round which doesnt seem to help. I'm starting to think either there isnt enough tension on the nut or theres something up with the bridge? Does this problem sound familia to anyone? Its hard to describe but the notes dont ring/sustain like on my Excel and it has a slight muted rubber band sound under the note.

Its a Keyless U-12 400 using SIT strings. Originally built for BJ Cole here in the UK.

The F# just broke and I noticed this burr. Any chance this could be causing it? This sound is on most of the strings

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[Dennis Detweiler]

Yes, it could very well cause it. I touch up my changer fingers every so often with 400 wet/dry to get the groove out. Then finish it with 1200 wet/dry to polish it. Make sure to follow the circumference of the top of the finger. If that doesn't help, I'd call Williams.

[Bob Hoffnar]

Sometimes it's the guitar. They all sound different. One thing you might try is to check the tension on the screws that hold the neck on. Sometimes if they are too tight it can deaden the sound.

It probably has nothing to do with string tension or the burrs on the bridge. Be very careful sanding the bridge fingers. If you don't do it perfect you can ruin them.

[Dennis Detweiler]

I forgot about what Bob said. Buddy Emmons experimented with tightening and loosening the aluminum neck mounting screws. He said, when he tightened them he lost sustain. Just snug is plenty.

[Donny Hinson]

The grooving you show on the tops of the fingers could definitely affect the sound. That said, other things can also contribute to the problem, including screws that are too tight or too loose, and bad (old) strings. If you decide to to sand or polish the fingers, you must maintain a round contour where the string comes off the finger, or you'll get buzzing and whining, which are even worse problems.

As a side note, the damage shown was most likely done by transporting the guitar in a case that put pressure on the top of the changer. There should be blocks at either end of the case to prevent this, but many times those blocks and their coverings get compressed or knocked out of place, and the weight or mass of the guitar pushes the strings into the top of the changer and causes those grooves or dents.

[Oliver Samland]

The old Carter Steel Guitars website had a lot of valuable information - I'm thankful someone rescued it and the content is still online (steelguitar.com). Under Restoration/Repair you'll find a video about resurfacing the changer fingers, so you'll have some visuals that go along with what Dennis, Bob and Donny said. The Williams fingers are a bit unique in shape, but the concept will be the same.

http://steelguitar.com/restore.html

[David Wren]

I'm happy to say my new WIllaims U12 fingers have a hard plastic-like surface where the strings bear.... and so far no grooving at all.

However, each time I would restring my Carter U12 I would follow this procedure:
First remove all the existing strings;
Then I would place a piece of scootch tape on the metal surrounding the fingers (bridge, to protect them from scratching);

Finally, using a 4-5" long piece of 400 grit sandpaper, I would let the sandpaper accept the contour of the finger tops, and while moving back and forth, also gently go from treble side to bass, then back... ect.... It is very important to follow the curve, and not create flat spots on the finger tops.

After seeing all beginning grooves were gone, I would polish the finger tops with a soft rag, and some 10 weight oil (same oil I would put between the fingers, and rollers)....

Doing this each restring, it never was a giant chore, and kept the "zingies" away