Last night when playing my Kline I heard a snap, after which the F-lever stopped engaging the E-F change (4th string) - when I tune the change at the changer end, it still changes the action of the F-lever, but there is no movement in the 4th string finger.
Worried that I may have snapped something mechanically
Hello David,
I may not be a "mechanical ace", but there are things you can try.
Usually 2 strings are raised to F, strings 4 and 8.
So does #8 raise and not #4, or do they both not raise?
1. If only one raises, then what you can do is look at the mechanical linkage (from the changer back to the crossrods) and compare the working one with the non-working one and try to note what the difference is.
2. If both don't raise, then it would be a problem common to both strings, and you look at the linkage (from the pedals to the changer).
If all else fails, a picture of the underside would help.
They're a yoke system aren't they? I'd wager the hook on the end of the 4th string rod let got, and the yoke is getting pulled sideways from the tension of the other E string.
Sierra Session S12U, Carter Starter, USA Little Buddy, Austin dobro, B/G Bender Telecaster, '75 Twin Reverb, '75 Super Reverb 1x15
Check the "hook" on the changer finger to see if it broke. I was at a gig with mine one time, I tuned up and was warming up before we started. I stepped on my B pedal and it went to the floor and stayed there. The hook that the rod goes on broke. I quickly put the 3rd string raise to the lowering finger hook, tuned the 3rd string open to A, tuned the lower to G#, and played string 3 backwards from string 6 all night. I ended up swapping string 3s finger with string 9 as 9 had no raises on it.
The other thing to check is the set screw that holds the rod to the yoke. But, you said you heard a snap, which would lead me more to the changer.
Carter D10 8p/7k, Dekley S10 3p/4k C6 setup, Regal RD40 Dobro, Recording King Professional Dobro, NV400, NV112, Ibanez Gio guitar, Epiphone SG Special (open G slide and regular G tuning guitar) .
I have a Kline S12 extended E9 that I've worked on quite a lot so I'm very familiar with how the mechanics work. It could be a number of things and hard to say for sure without seeing it but here's some suggestions...
If nothing actually broke and when looking underneath everything looks okay and there's no dangling rods or visible broken parts, it's most likely that the pull rod for your E raise on the 4th string slipped in the swivel that holds it in the yoke. There's just a single small set screw that holds the rods in these and if it slips on the rod it won't engage the pull properly. If everything looks still attached where it should be and the other E raise is engaging the finger than it's most likely a pull rod slip. It would most likely change the tuning of the other E raise as well but it may possibly still work. There isn't a huge amount of movement needed for the E raise on the low string so it may not have been affected much or at all.
Or as, Colin and Richard said above, the loop at the changer may have snapped for that pull. If so, that would be pretty obvious as the rod would be loose and not attached to the changer anymore potentially. If tuning the change at the end plate changes the feel of the lever still than it's most likely just slipped in the yoke and it needs to be reset so it engages again. If the loop snapped and it's still slightly holding onto the finger, that could be it as well.
If the loop on the finger looks good, find the yoke that raises the E's with it upside down and find the rod that connects to your 4th string. Loosen the small set screw that holds the rod in the swivel that holds it in the yoke, pull it snug so the yoke is balanced again, re-tighten the set screw, and then engage the lever and see if it pulls the finger. If it does, you're back in action and you can tune it up normally at the end plate. Sometimes it's a little trial and error to get it balanced with the other E raise but usually it doesn't take much to get them to pull together.
If you post some photos of the underneath of your guitar, the hooks on the changer where the rods link to it and the yoke that is attached to the E raise lever I bet I can help you diagnose what's going on and what may have happened. The Kline yoke system is pretty amazing and fairly simple once you get the hang of it but it does take balancing of where the pull rods are set so they time correctly and you get the pulls you need. If there's any splits on that string, which there most likely is with your C pedal E raise, than it gets a little more complicated and there's more parts that have the chance of breaking but most likely the rod just slipped and needs to be reset. If one rod isn't set correctly it will still pull the other potentially depending on how much the other slipped.
If you did snap a rod or the hook on the end of the rod, I fabricate replacements and can make you a new rod or any other rod and yoke parts needed for Klines. Let me know if you find yourself in need as Joe no longer has any replacement parts available for sale. The E raise pull rod is one of the more complicated of them because it has the split for the C pedal but I just made some recently and can easily make more if needed.
I "think" the hook broke, but since it hasnt fallen out or the guitar isnt making any rattling noises, it could be the pull rod, as William mentioned. Ill have a look now and see if I can identify the exact issue.
William, I already emailed Joe - but if he doesnt have spares I wont expect a reply - if it does turn out that its a broken hook, Ill PM you asap - is that ok?
Got gigs coming up, its a particular challenge having to do without the E-F change. Ill have to play around it, I guess
David Jørgensen wrote: 24 Nov 2025 6:34 am
Thanks for all the advice!
I "think" the hook broke, but since it hasnt fallen out or the guitar isnt making any rattling noises, it could be the pull rod, as William mentioned. Ill have a look now and see if I can identify the exact issue.
William, I already emailed Joe - but if he doesnt have spares I wont expect a reply - if it does turn out that its a broken hook, Ill PM you asap - is that ok?
Got gigs coming up, its a particular challenge having to do without the E-F change. Ill have to play around it, I guess
Happy to help out if you find yourself in need. Joe is great about responding but just earlier this year I tried to buy some original parts and he said he didn't have any available anymore after a flood he had years back that trashed what he had left. That's what led me to setup to make them myself, which had been my original plan before someone sent me his contact to try and get originals. I had to make that exact split rod to swap my E's from the right knee to the left. I could also repair the original if you'd like to go that way as well or walk someone through doing it for you if you know of someone closer to you with brazing abilities. It can be a little tricky pulling those out and reinstalling the rods that have splits unfortunately but I've done it many times and can walk you through it. I'll keep an eye out for your message!
