Solderless cables

Amplifiers, effects, pickups, electronic components, wiring, etc.

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Carl Williams
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Post by Carl Williams »

Nic, I recently "made" three new Geo L cables and used straight plugs on all and maybe out of "beginners luck", they worked first time out. Now, I had done a search on the subject here on the forum and read what Brad mentioned about over-tightening the set screw. I'm using the smaller/skinnier .155 size--so far, so good... Image
Len Amaral
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Post by Len Amaral »

What Bob Knight said!
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Mark Herrick
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Post by Mark Herrick »

<SMALL>This will safely break the outer insulation but not break thru to the inner conductor causing a short.</SMALL>
I don't think the screw in the side of the plug does anything more than hold the cable in place. There are two little sharp contact pins inside the plug barrel that make the conductor and shield connections to the cable. If you remove the cable from the plug you can see where they cut into the end of the cable. This is why it is important to cut the end of the cable square so that it seats flat inside the plug barrel with no chance of missing either of the two contact pins.

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<font size="1" color="#8e236b"><p align="center">[This message was edited by Mark Herrick on 17 August 2005 at 02:12 PM.]</p></FONT>
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Jon Light (deceased)
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Post by Jon Light (deceased) »

It is worth mentioning that on the straight plug you need to make certain that the set screw is backed off enough before inserting the wire. Otherwise the wire will not seat itself properly in the casing.
David Mullis
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Post by David Mullis »

hmmmmmmmmmm, I thought there was only one needle inside the plug ends?
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Jack Stoner
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Post by Jack Stoner »

There's only one pin ("needle") in all the connectors I have, for the center conductor. The ground shield is contacted by the set screw as previously mentioned.
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Mark Herrick
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Post by Mark Herrick »

I stand corrected...
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Lee Baucum
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Post by Lee Baucum »

Mark, you may sit corrected, if you prefer.
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Nic du Toit
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Post by Nic du Toit »

Jim,
Actually, your reference to my grammer used make me smile, and I could not resist answering you. During April 1980 I was fortunate to have spent some time with Jeff Newman at his (then) steel school. At that time I was still quite young and did not know too much 'American English'. Boy, those guys (fellow learners) would spend most of our lunch break asking me to tell them stories about South Africa, while they were laughing at my attempts to make them understand what it is that I was trying to tell them. Furtunately I do have a great sense of humour, and we all had a great time.
Thanks again to all you guys for your tips re the cables.
Regards,
Nic

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Walter Hamlin
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Post by Walter Hamlin »

I've Been using these type cables for many years and wouldn't have no other kind when it comes to serious playing. Never had a problem getting them to work either. Like it has been said, cut the cable square with a wire cutter, push it in and tighten it, that's all there is to it.
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Ernest Cawby
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Post by Ernest Cawby »

I first started using them in 1991 the cables I built then are still working today, never been repaired, still work.
Herby Wallace sells them and one of the steelplayers at the Saluda Conventioon sold them at the best price i have found. In Nov. I will buy more of them tnen.

ernie
Mike Shockley
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Post by Mike Shockley »

I have used GL cables and solderless plugs, straight and 90's for 30 years with no problems.
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Ernie Renn
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Post by Ernie Renn »

I've used solderless cables since '79. They were Bill Lawrence cable ends back then. Using a sharp knife or razor, cut the cord flush. Insert it in the jack and firmly press it into the hole. Tighten the screw until it touchs the cable. Then turn the screw two complete turns from the touching point. I've always made them this way. I don't remember who showed me this method. It might have been Phil Baugh or Bill Lawrence himself... It was only 26 years ago!

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My best,
Ernie
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