
Solderless cables
Moderator: Dave Mudgett
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Carl Williams
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Nic, I recently "made" three new Geo L cables and used straight plugs on all and maybe out of "beginners luck", they worked first time out. Now, I had done a search on the subject here on the forum and read what Brad mentioned about over-tightening the set screw. I'm using the smaller/skinnier .155 size--so far, so good... 

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Len Amaral
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Mark Herrick
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I don't think the screw in the side of the plug does anything more than hold the cable in place. There are two little sharp contact pins inside the plug barrel that make the conductor and shield connections to the cable. If you remove the cable from the plug you can see where they cut into the end of the cable. This is why it is important to cut the end of the cable square so that it seats flat inside the plug barrel with no chance of missing either of the two contact pins.<SMALL>This will safely break the outer insulation but not break thru to the inner conductor causing a short.</SMALL>
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<font size="1" color="#8e236b"><p align="center">[This message was edited by Mark Herrick on 17 August 2005 at 02:12 PM.]</p></FONT>
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Nic du Toit
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Jim,
Actually, your reference to my grammer used make me smile, and I could not resist answering you. During April 1980 I was fortunate to have spent some time with Jeff Newman at his (then) steel school. At that time I was still quite young and did not know too much 'American English'. Boy, those guys (fellow learners) would spend most of our lunch break asking me to tell them stories about South Africa, while they were laughing at my attempts to make them understand what it is that I was trying to tell them. Furtunately I do have a great sense of humour, and we all had a great time.
Thanks again to all you guys for your tips re the cables.
Regards,
Nic
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<img align=left src="http://home.telkomsa.net/peterden/al%20saut/images/nightmarefront85.jpg" border="0"><FONT face="arial" SIZE=3 COLOR="#003388">Nic du Toit</font>
<B><I><font face="arial" size=1>1970 Rosewood P/P Emmons D10 Fatback 8x4
Peavey Session 500 unmodfied
My CD "Nightmare on Emmons Steel"</font></I></B>
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Actually, your reference to my grammer used make me smile, and I could not resist answering you. During April 1980 I was fortunate to have spent some time with Jeff Newman at his (then) steel school. At that time I was still quite young and did not know too much 'American English'. Boy, those guys (fellow learners) would spend most of our lunch break asking me to tell them stories about South Africa, while they were laughing at my attempts to make them understand what it is that I was trying to tell them. Furtunately I do have a great sense of humour, and we all had a great time.
Thanks again to all you guys for your tips re the cables.
Regards,
Nic
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<img align=left src="http://home.telkomsa.net/peterden/al%20saut/images/nightmarefront85.jpg" border="0"><FONT face="arial" SIZE=3 COLOR="#003388">Nic du Toit</font>
<B><I><font face="arial" size=1>1970 Rosewood P/P Emmons D10 Fatback 8x4
Peavey Session 500 unmodfied
My CD "Nightmare on Emmons Steel"</font></I></B>
<font face="arial" size=1><A class=db href="mailto:alsaut@absamail.co.za?subject=Forum Reply">Click here to E-mail us.</font></A>
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I've used solderless cables since '79. They were Bill Lawrence cable ends back then. Using a sharp knife or razor, cut the cord flush. Insert it in the jack and firmly press it into the hole. Tighten the screw until it touchs the cable. Then turn the screw two complete turns from the touching point. I've always made them this way. I don't remember who showed me this method. It might have been Phil Baugh or Bill Lawrence himself... It was only 26 years ago!
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My best,
Ernie
www.buddyemmons.com
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My best,
Ernie
www.buddyemmons.com